It’s the time of year when sunscreen becomes a ‘hot’ topic. If you were believe most of the nonsense out there, you’ll probably never use a so called ‘chemical’ sunscreen ever again. There are two common reasons why this might be:
- You’ve been told or read somewhere that ‘physical’ reflects UV where as chemical absorbs; making physical the better option.
- Physical contains natural ingredients so naturally, it must be better for you.
Oh, if only it was that simple and clear cut.
If you take a look at most of ‘physical is better’ claims, you’ll generally find it comes from those selling physical based sunscreens only. The skincare industry today is full of marketing hype and misleading information, which is why we lean on science to find the facts and reveal the truth.
Falling for this whole physical is better nonsense without knowing the facts could cost you a lot of money and you may end up using something that you don’t particularly like.
There are a lot of ‘theories’ out there but instead of giving you yet another ‘random’ theory with absolutely nothing to substantiate it, let’s take a look at the science.
First of all, both physical and chemical based sunscreens contain chemicals. Sorry, but it’s true.
Have you looked at the periodic table lately? Titanium, Zinc and Oxygen are all on there – at least they were last time I checked. Together, they form Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide, aka. ‘chemicals’. These are the key ingredients found in physical sunscreen.
For this reason alone, calling one chemical and one physical is not accurate and instantly leads you to believe that the one referred to as ‘chemical’ must be bad for you. It’s just not true.
In chemistry, you would actually refer to the physical sunscreen as ‘inorganic‘ and the chemical sunscreen as ‘organic‘. Interesting, isn’t it! This is technically the correct way to differentiate between the two.
Absorption & Reflection
Both chemical and physical absorb UV. Yep, sorry to burst that bubble for you!
Most of the marketing hype and nonsense on social media today would have you believe that physical reflects 100% of UV… period! This is only partly correct and it really doesn’t take a lot of research to uncover the truth.
Unfortunately, cosmetic chemistry and the electromagnetic spectrum isn’t something high on most skin therapists lists to learn – but it should be. If they are recommending you skincare products, don’t you think it would be responsible to learn about what it is you’re actually selling? Most of them just repost images provided by the manufacturer that tells them physical is better because hey, that’s all they formulate!
UV light is divided into UVA and UVB. Physical sunscreens predominantly absorb in the UVB (promotes skin Burning) spectrum and reflect in the UVA (promotes skin Aging) spectrum. Only about 5% of UVB light is reflected by physical sunscreens and the remainder gets absorbed – just like chemical sunscreens.
The argument that chemical sunscreens absorb heat producing more free radicals – essentially causing additional cell damage, increased risk of pigmentation, and whatever else you can come up with… is very weak! Given the sheer lack of evidence available to substantiate these claims and the fact that both physical and chemical absorb UV, we don’t feel like it should be a reason to avoid chemical based sunscreens. A skincare routine and diet rich in antioxidants (topically and internally) will certainly help to combat free radical damage anyway.
If you can find any scientific evidence in relation to the chemical sunscreen heat theory, we would love to see it.
Natural is Best. No, it’s not!
We all love good, natural products. But you need to know when and where to draw the line.
Just because something is natural doesn’t automatically make it better or safer for you; just like something that is synthetic (man made) doesn’t mean it’s bad or unsafe for you.
While Titanium, Zinc and Oxygen are all natural, they are still chemicals in the world of chemistry. It doesn’t matter which way to try and swing it. When they are formulated into a sunscreen product, the Titanium and Zinc may even be coated in chemical substances in order to stop them from becoming photocatalytic. Essentially, you have chemicals being coated in chemicals. This is just another reason why referencing sunscreens as chemical and physical isn’t really ideal and gives a false sense of how they truly work.
If you’re still having trouble getting over the whole ‘natural is better’ thing – perhaps Google where botox comes from. This natural substance is actually one of, if not the most deadliest neurotoxins on the planet. Smelling even the smallest amount is enough to kill you. But hey, natural is safe, right?
There are plenty of other natural ‘things’ out there that that can kill. From plants to toxins found in animals – the list is endless.
SPF30+ vs SPF50+
The difference between an SPF30+ and SPF50+ is about 1% extra protection. Yes, you read that correctly. All you stand gain between an SPF30+ and SPF50+ is 1%.
If you’re buying an SPF50+ you can guarantee that there will be chemical ingredients in the bottle. There is no way to achieve an SPF50+ physical only sunscreen without this overlap of inorganic (physical) and organic (chemical) ingredients.
Let’s take a look at Wotnot for example. You’ll find they don’t make an SPF50+ sunscreen because they would need to break their ‘100% wot’s good, 0% wot’s not‘ ethos. Although the chemicals required to make an SPF50+ aren’t generally considered bad for you (eg. they aren’t bad for you), they are synthetic/man made so Wotnot can’t/won’t use them. For this reason, no SPF50+ will be coming out from Wotnot anytime soon.
The Cancer Council on the other hand can go up to SPF50+ because they opt for chemical based ingredients.
Research, Research, Research!
A random post on Instagram or Facebook by a clinic that only stocks physical sunscreen, or some beauty blogger ‘plugging’ some product they’ve received for free in order to review it should NOT, under any circumstances, be taken seriously.
Remember, we are talking about cosmetic chemistry and the electromagnetic spectrum, in this instance. Sunscreen, like all skincare, isn’t as simple as just ‘slip, slop, slap’. Without any scientific evidence or clinical research to substantiate the claims being made, you’re believing something or someone who may not have any real clue what they are actually talking about. In our experience, it’s almost always a reiteration of exactly what the manufacturer has provided in their training manuals and marketing collateral – which is always going to be bias.
Training and education in the area of cosmetic chemistry and real skin science is virtually unheard of in this industry. You’ll get the basics from manufacturer/brand specific training but this doesn’t nearly suffice.
Do your research. Know what you are buying into. Do not be an ignorant consumer when it comes to what you’re placing in and on your body. All the information you need is a Google search away. There is a going to be a lot of garbage to sift through but if you take the time and look for articles from reputable blogs citing medical journals and scientific studies/evidence, you will be much better off – both immediately and long term.
So, which one is best?
If you’re still reading, you’re probably wondering which one is really the best choice.
The answer is simple: whatever best suits ‘you’ as an individual.
There is no clear cut answer to this and from all the research and studies we’ve read, it really comes down to what suits you – personal preference.
If your skin can’t tolerate chemical based sunscreens, then perhaps it’s worth questioning ‘why’ before completely writing them off. It may be a sign that something is actually wrong with your skin, not the sunscreen.
Sensitive skin is not a skin type – it’s a skin condition. Perhaps you were born with sensitive skin but this is very rare. It’s far more common that it’s become sensitized through the use or poor quality products, ablative skin treatments and over-exfoliation. With the proper treatments and correct skincare regimen, your sensitive skin can generally be repaired and brought back into a good, non-sensitized state.
What type of sunscreen may also depend on what you’re doing and where you’re going. Chemical sunscreens generally sit much better under makeup and feel a lot lighter. If you’re going swimming, Physical may be a good choice. Experiment and see what best suits you.
More important than ‘chemical vs physical’…
- How much you apply and how well you apply it – this makes a huge difference in efficacy. Poor application could result in an SPF30+ becoming more like SPF5+. Don’t skimp on your sunscreen! You may save a couple of dollars by doing so but the sunburn that follows shortly after will have you regretting your decision. That’s before we even get to the increased risk of developing pigmentation, accelerated aging and increased risk of skin cancer!
- Using a broad spectrum sunscreen that protects from UVA and UVB – very important! Remember, you want to protect yourself against UVA (Aging) and UVB (Burning). Most sunscreens today will do just that but make sure you check the label and confirm it by reading the ingredients.
- An SPF rating of at least 30+ – but don’t fall for the marketing hype. You stand to gain about 1% extra protection between SPF30+ and SPF50+ but it could cost you substantially more for that extra 1%. The additional ingredients needed to achieve an SPF50+ also come into play.
- Quality over quantity – not all sunscreen is created equal. Avoid sunscreens with fragrances and parabens (they are completely and utterly useless) as well as other ingredients that are simply not necessary for a sunscreen to be effective. This is where it pays to know your ingredients! Paying $9.95 for a 500ml bottle of SPF50+ probably isn’t going to get you quality.
At the end of the day, physical and chemical sunscreens are like comparing Apple/iOS and Google/Android mobile phones. Both are trying to achieve the same/similar outcome but go about it in very different way. Some people opt for Apple, others opt for Google – for reasons that are often personal to them.
Hopefully this article helps you make more informed decisions about your sunscreen purchase – a vital purchase all year. Avoid the marketing hype and ridiculous claims being made. Most them are are unsubstantiated and based on nothing more than opinions, theories or worse – bias manufacturer marketing.
We’ve linked below to a number of scientific studies and research papers we’ve referenced when writing this article. There are a lot more available so if you need any more proof than what we’ve already provided, a Google search will certainly do wonders for you.
- Chemical vs. Physical Sunscreens: The Science (with video)
- “Physical” vs. “chemical” sunscreens and other sunscreen myths
- The Absorption Properties of “Physical” Sunscreens
- Metal oxide sunscreens protect skin by absorption, not by reflection or scattering